I was joined by a stranger: a man called Owen Knight who had won a review ride-a-long. And I find that, days after visiting, I am still trying to fully compute each nook and cranny of its stylish, subtly affecting excellence. Story Cellar does all this and more while shimmering with fine-honed craft and purpose. Is it still just a chicken place if you also do fresh pasta, wood-fired scallops in a strident XO sauce, and end it all with a bread and butter pudding that may genuinely be one of London’s best desserts? Ostensibly a Paris-inspired rotisserie chicken spin-off of Tom Sellers’s two Michelin-starred Restaurant Story, this Covent Garden spot is, perhaps, better understood as a fanatically detail-oriented team stacking a careful Jenga tower of elements onto a deceptively basic concept. At its worst, it is a phenomenon that gives us fiddly “deconstructions” that are technically impressive but lack the brutish, simple genius of the original.īut at its best, I think this tendency may also be directly responsible for somewhere like Story Cellar. No, what I’m referring to is those chefs that tend to bring a wild-eyed meticulousness to bear on even the most outwardly banal of culinary projects.
I am not talking, in this instance, about any accusations of off-duty misbehaviour that might give this newspaper’s lawyers cause for concern. He thing about immensely talented chefs is that they cannot help themselves. New West End Company BRANDPOST | PAID CONTENT.
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